Browsing the archives for the Rhone tag

Midwest Wine School Experience – WSET Intermediate Level – Class 6

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Midwest Wine School Experience

Class 6 of the WSET Intermediate Level course, led by Jessica Bell, was a foray into the world of Rhone-style wines and the varieties that make them so delicious including grenache and syrah/shiraz.  In addition, we spent a short time delving into the riesling variety, discussing where it grows best and the remarkable styles of wine it creates.

Grenache and syrah (or shiraz in Australia) are very different grapes that winemakers have been using for centuries to make single varietal wines or blended wines using variations of the two (or more) varieties.

Grenache, a large thin-skinned grape that originated in Spain (where it’s called garnacha).  It loves hot climates and does well in warm places like Spain and France’s southern Rhône Valley.  It has made its way around the world and can be found anywhere that syrah thrives.  On it’s own, grenache makes full-bodied wines with lots of ripe red fruit and spice, but it gets better when it is blended with other varieties that add some more complexity.  Syrah is just one example.

Syrah is a dark, tannic grape that makes full-bodied wines with dark fruit flavors and complex animal and vegetal chracteristics.  Like grenache, it also does well in warm regions and is usually found in a blend.  Wines from the northern part of the Rhône Valley are made primarily from syrah with grenache and many others filling out the rest of the blend.  Examples of syrah can be found in warm places around the world, inlucding the United States and Australia.  Shiraz, as it is known in Australia, is made into bold, spicy, fruit-forward wines with intense black fruit and sweet spice.

Riesling, on the other hand, is the polar opposite to grenache and syrah.  Riesling is at home in cool regions like Germany, Alsace and Austria.  It can even be found in the cooler regions of the United States, Australia and New Zealand.  But Germany is by far the premier location for riesling.  The Germans have mastered the art of coaxing this grape into ripening under some of the most challenging growing conditions in the world.  The cold northern latitude force the winemakers to leave their grapes on the vine longer so they can fully ripen (if at all).  Steep rocky vineyards along rivers like the Rhine, with their east facing slopes, are difficult to manage but necessary to capture the warm sunlight needed to ripen the grapes. Dry riesling wines can have floral aromas, white fruit and bright citrus flavors with bracing acidity and steely mineral notes.  Riesling can also be made into delicious sweet dessert wines such as beerenauslese, trockenbeerenauslese and eiswein.

Rendell Thomas will present sparkling and sweet wines later this week

Wines Tasted (Class 6):

  1. Perrin et Fils Reserve 2006 (Côtes du Rhône, France)
  2. Domaine la Clotte-Fontane 2006 (Languedoc, France)
  3. Calcareous Tre Violet 2005 (Paso Robles, California)
  4. Layer Cake Shiraz 2008 (South Australia)
  5. Weingut Johann Peter Mertes Riesling 2006 (Saar, Germany)
  6. Buried Cane Riesling 2006 (Washington State)

Cline Cellars 2007 Ancient Vines Mourvèdre

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Tasting Note

Mourvèdre, sometimes called monastrell or mataró, is commonly used as a blending grape in Rhone-style wines like Châteauneuf-du-Pape or as the silent partner to some of California’s finest zinfandels.  Mourvèdre adds structure and finesse to common blends, elevating them to some of the most sought after wines. You almost never see this grape used in a single-varietal bottling because so little of it is grown around the world, but when it is grown in the right location, by the right people, you get a spectacular wine!  Such is the case for Cline Cellars‘ Ancient Vines Mourvèdre!

Fred Cline’s Oakley ranch, located 40 miles east of San Francisco, is home to some of California’s oldest plantings of these rare vines (80-120 years old). The vineyards, situated in the midst of Contra Costa’s sprawling parking lots and big box stores, are in a setting far less idyllic than southern France or the picturesque Napa Valley.  The Cline family planted these vineyards five generations ago, long before the real estate boom engulfed California.  Here they soon recognized that the land was blessed with the perfect conditions for growing hearty grapes like mourvèdre.  The hot, almost desert-like conditions during the day are tempered by the cooling effects of the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers at night.  The weather combined with sandy, well-drained soils forces the old vines to struggle, producing a small amount of very intensely flavored and structured fruit.

Tasting Notes:

Cline Cellars’ Ancient Vines Mourvèdre ($16) is one of life’s guilty pleasures.  I found its musky aromas of ripe plums and black cherries strangely seductive, with essences of cedar and coffee that draw you in further into the glass.  The palate is a blend of full-bodied blackberry and cherry liqueur flavors with a wonderfully balanced, tannic finish of dark chocolate that leaves you longing for more.  And it gets even better!  If you liked it on day one, hold on to it for another day or two (if you have the will power) and observe how the flavors and aromas become more rich and complex!  Decanting or aerating may speed this along, but this is one is well worth waiting for.

Varietal Voyage No.11 – 2008 Domaine de Gournier Viognier

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Varietal Voyage

The next wine on the list is from France’s southern Rhône valley.  Domaine de Gournier is a very small winery located near Cévennes, between Avignon to the east and Nîmes to the west. Gournier’s Viognier is classified as a vin de pays, or country wine. According to France’s classification of wines, this one is somewhere in the middle in terms of quality.  For this leg of our journey this wine is a little unusual, because it is not 100% Viognier.  It is a blend of primarily Viognier with a little Sauvginon Blanc and Chardonnay added to round things out.

Maurice Barnouin and his family started Domaine de Gournier as a nursery, growing and cloning vine stock for other vineyards. Several years ago they decided to start making their own unique style of wines.  Gournier now produces several wines including: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre, as well as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier. The 200 hectare estate (about 500 acres) is situated on a plateau of limestone rich soil with little vegetation to prevent the warm Mediterranean sun from ripening the fruit to its fullest.

The 2008 Viognier is a good example of a simple country wine. If you are expecting a big, fruit-forward expression of the Rhône valley, think again. This is a very simple, everyday wine that doesn’t overpower your palette or your pocket book.  It has pleasing, but delicate floral and peach aromas that work together with light, herbaceous apricot flavors.  The addition of Sauvignon Blanc brings a pleasing balance of mineral flavors and fresh acidity that seems to dance around on your tongue. Serve this one slightly chilled for a great summer refreshment.

2008 Domaine de Gournier Viognier ($11)

Varietal Voyage – See how it started…